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Travel

Dublin, Saturday

Walked out of our apartment right into a bunch of homeless junkies arguing about when a shop will open, to get some food or booze more likely. What’s not to love about this city?
The bus to the airport is cheap, but takes only coins. Had to miss one and get change in a coffee shop.
The airport is packed and quite chaotic. You drop your baggage on one end, then go all the way back for security. Security was long. Even my laptop got checked, which never happened before. Not sure what they were looking there.
Some cafes at the airport are running out of food. We literally got the last two toasts. No more porridge as well.

Ryanair is late by an hour. Again. We decided that it would be a shame to visit Dublin and never taste Guiness, so we ended up sharing half a pint at 12PM in the airport.

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Travel

Dublin, Friday

Guiness is all around Dublin.

As well as social housing projects we’re familiar with from the UK.

Visited Henrieta 14 museum. It’s a Georgian mansion turned into a horrible tenement building, and reclaimed only some 40 years ago.
Surprised to learned that the first owner of the mansion remarried when he was 62, and his young wife gave him 8 children, which means he managed to stay somewhat sexually active until his seventies at least.
Also, while the family moved to their summer residence, some servants stayed behind to clear the cesspit in the garden, that accumulated shit from September to May.
After 1850 or so the mansion went into disrepair, and each room was divided into smaller rooms to accommodate a whole family.

Life was very hard in those tenements with some 7 to 15 children. Oh, I don’t know. Have you tried having less children maybe?
In general, it seems it’s the same tale everywhere. Urbanization of the 20th century created slums, and living in slums sucked big time.

The old lady that left the housing last actually had it alright, because she had the whole apartment for herself. If we forget about the fact that she didn’t have nor bath, nor working toilet in the building.


We then went to the Little Dublin Museum, which is just a few rooms. Again, the tour was packed, some 30 people. But this time most of them were from the UK. Almost local tourists.
The interesting bit of history was that the park in from of the museum was once a private park, and only the rich people living I the mansions around it had the keys. Reminds me of present day Edinburgh and some parts of London.

Had a farewell dinner in a nice local restaurant recommended by our host. At first we got a table by the toilets again, despite me making a reservation ahead of time. But after we asked nicely, they moved us to another table.

The food was delicious. Enjoyed every bit of it.
Taxis in Dublin work “sometimes”. There’s Uber, Bolt, Free Now. But sometimes you would get a taxi that is 15 minutes away. Sometimes you wouldn’t be able to get one for 15 minutes at all.

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Travel

Dublin, Thursday

Today we went on a hike from Howth. It’s just some 30 minutes from Dublin on a local train.

It was cloudly, so we didn’t get any sunburn. The trail along the cliffs was very well developed.

Saw a huge hairy caterpillar, maybe a Woolly Bear.

When we went through the heath, path became slightly less obvious. Saw something like a legless lizard, or maybe just simply a fat lizard, but didn’t have time to photo it.

On the way back from a train saw two foxes. One was just sleeping there in the bushes, despite the train. Another was unfortunately dead, probably hit by one of the trains.
Back in the city, hit a couple of local cafes before we managed to find one still serving brunch. One turned out to be more of a restaurant, and they had only a table for us by the toilets, while the other was serving brunch only on weekends, and just some focaccias on regular days.
It would be a shame to visit Dublin and not to try out a good Irish coffee. We went back to Irish Whiskey Museum for that. They serve it with Power’s Three Swallows. And it’s a good one, very warming.

Again three girls from the States sitting the in the bar. Barman asked one of them which whisky did she like the most, and she said “the sweeter one”.
Busses in Dublin are somewhat finicky. Had to wait for the right one for maybe fifteen minutes. It would be faster to actually walk, but we had enough walking for the day.

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Travel

Dublin, Wednesday

The traffic lights in Dublin is absolutely horrible. It’s easier to just cross and hope for the best than to wait. Otherwise, you can wait for a couple of minutes easily.
We went on a Historical Walking Tour, with a real history professor.

Learned that Temple Bar is not a temple, nor a bar. It’s named after Temple’s barrier, Temples being a wealthy trading family, and a barrier is the one used to dry parts of a river.

Also learned that there was an actual war between England and Ireland between 1919-1921.
The tragedy of Irish language is that it’s a spokenanguage that has remained only a written language.
I didn’t like Dublin streets that much. No trees, just rows of those four-story buildings:

Had a fantastic coffee:

Then we went on a tour of the Irish Whiskey Museum. It was packed, some 20 people, most of them from the States. It was so full, in fact, that during tastings they had to move us around just for everyone to fit in, as there was not enough place at the bar.


Tasted The Irishman, Powers and some Castle (Knappogue Castle), which turns out to be Bushmills in disguise. Nothing particularly blew me away as Aberfeldy did a couple of years back, though.

The stories they tell on the tour are completely false, though. “Dead ringer” has nothing to do with drunk people being buried alive, nor “saved by the bell”.

After that we went back to the apartment to rest. There is GBK in Dublin as well, so we ordered some burgers for dinner.

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Travel

Dublin, Tuesday

I love midday flights. They allow me to sleep well.
On the way to Gatwick seen two foxes. One was simply walking along the railway, and another peacefully sleeping despite the trains passing by.
Arrived at 11:10. Despite warnings to come early, we got past the security by 11:45, and that’s with just a single attendant handling the baggage. No self dropoff on Ryanair. Departure got delayed some 30 minutes at first, then 30 more.
Rynair seats are weird. The look like some garden chair, made of cheap blue plastic. There isn’t event a holder. So even if you take the magazine, you have nowhere to put it. Luckily, the flight is just an hour.
The Dublin apartment has the tiniest bathroom I can remember. I can hardly turn in it.
Dublin is full of gypsies. Not sure if those relocated here after UK made it less monetary attractive, or they were always living there and only going to the UK for “work”.

Everything feels a bit like the UK. Same language, same time zone, same type G sockets, same double decker busses.
Most of the restaurants in Dublin are closed Monday and Tuesday. Found a nice French restaurant that is open, though, called Pichet.