Category: Hardware

О “железе” и программах

  • Sony Trinitron

    Spent an evening trying to connect CRT to a modern PC, using HDMI to VGA and VGA to SCART. At first, I thought it would be completely impossible. CRT was displaying an image, but it was repeated three times horizontally, and with wrong colors. Colors got fixed by disabling scaling in nVidia settings. Getting a single image of right proportions took a lot of trial and error. But with CRU and a lot of tinkering, I did manage to get it close enough, albeit the image is slightly overscanned, maybe because the TV was calibrated for PS2 before. Still, it’s amazing it works at all. The resolution I ended up with is a weird 576p, but hey, as long as it works.

  • Dreamcast on CRT

    Tried a proper SCART cable for Dreamcast, from the same seller I’ve got my Xbox cable. The picture is colored now, which is good. But the TV doesn’t switch to SCART input like it does with Xbox. Not sure if the cable isn’t wired correctly or it’s the Dreamcast.
    Played Skies of Arcadia until the Pirate Island, but on the later. I think it’s the fact that both the console and the game are PAL, but the flickering is quite noticeable. Talking about how CRTs are superior to OLEDs 😅
    One weird thing is that Street Fighter 3rd Strike was playing sound, but no picture. Went through multiple PAL and NTSC versions, until I found only the GDI version works for some reason.
    Not that I plan to play Street Fighter 3 on Dreamcast, as I don’t have a fighting stick for it, and I really don’t like the gamepad. It’s just Street Fighter 3 is like Diablo 3 to me. I know exactly how it looks and plays, so I install it on every console I own.

  • Xbox 360

    It’s quite amazing that a year later, with BadUpdate 1.3 and BadAvatar it’s possible to boot directly into Aurora. Unmodded Xbox 360 is as good as a modded one now. And the best thing, I don’t need an USB drive to stick out of my console anymore.

  • Sony Trinitron

    I bought a RGB SCART from eBay for my Xbox. Not sure why Xbox specifically, maybe because I had plans to play Halo anyway?
    It turned out to be actually good, despite not being an expensive. Now TV actually turns on the correct input when console is connected, and the colours are good too.
    The image is… interesting. One thing I noticed is that in Halo, in the bog there are fireflies, and those leave trails on CRT, something that doesn’t happed on LEDs.
    Tried Dead or Alive 3 on it. There’s certainly something to that motion blur.

  • Sony Trinitron

    I think I understand why TV only shows black and white image, and it’s the adapter’s fault. SCART is the connector, and it can transmit different types of signal. Of course it transmits the crappiest composite signal, instead of RGB. My suspicion is that the PAL switch doesn’t actually send a sync on the PAL pin, but just switches framerate, which confuses the TV.
    The reason I wanted HDMI in my chain is to capture gameplay. If I forgo that idea, I can buy SCART cables for specific consoles to connect them directly to CRT for the best possible result. The problem is that each cable costs around 30GBP. Converting one is not much, converting 3 or more becomes significant.
    Since those are mostly 6th generation consoles that already have component cables, I could get a component to SCART adapter for the price of 3 cables.
    There’s also an alternative that is cheaper, and allows me to keep using HDMI, but is a bit more convoluted. There are HDMI to VGA adapters, and VGA to SCART converters.

  • Sony Trinitron

    Struggled to understand why I’m not getting any picture. Turns out, TV doesn’t automatically switch to SCART, even when there is signal. As I didn’t get a remote, I was glad to find that “input” followed by + does the trick.
    I tried connecting Neo Geo first, but by the time I figured how to change inputs, I switched to Dreamcast through Composite to SCART adapter, because I thought that maybe Neo Geo is acting up. Dreamcast only displays black and white image that flickers badly, though. And I was afraid that might be the case with Neo Geo as well. Luckily, switching back to Neo Geo on the correct input worked fine.
    The image from Neo Geo exceeded my expectations. The colours are indeed very pleasant, and there is not much flickering. You can see it in the menus, on the white background, and reading documents from it would probably be a very bad idea. But I actually played Metal Slug and Garou, and both are extremely nice.

  • Sony Trinitron KV-M1401U

    I didn’t plan to buy a CRT. They are overpriced nowadays, since everyone is into retrogaming it seems, and nobody produce them anymore, and they degrade with time. Limited supply, growing demand.
    They are also very heavy and bulky, and most sellers refuse to ship them, or the shipping can be while not astronomical, quite significant.
    So I noticed someone was selling Toshiba CRT in my neighborhood, which they obviously used for retrogaming. That seller disappeared, but the thought stuck with me.
    First, I started looking for a similar Toshiba, or a Panasonic. Then, a wild Trinitron appeared nearby.
    Now, the thing with Sony Trinitrons is that they’re supposed to be unique among CRTs. Most CRTs are curved both horizontally and vertically, like a bulb, which they are. But Trinitrons are curved only horizontally, like a cylinder. Also, most CRTs use a slot mask, which gives almost honeycomb like pattern. While Trinitrons have more of a grid like pattern.
    Unexpected benefit of buying a UK CRT is that it almost always has RGB SCART port, that offers the best quality. While US CRT owners sometimes have to mod them to get one.
    In any case, I found myself in the afternoon in Catford, by a row of brick houses. The guy, Elliot, has 3 CRTs, including a 21″ Sony and a Panasonic, and he seemed to be a genuine retrogamer: with a modded PS2 and a RGB cable. He even said that he calibrated the TV himself.
    Carrying CRT on a bus isn’t easy, even if it’s “only” 14″. It’s the way the weight is spread, very forward. But I managed.

  • HifiMan Ananda Stealth

    Don’t laught, but I replaced my Hifiman XS with Ananda. I got an open box this time, and with a coupon, the price was the same I paid for Hifiman XS.
    The main visual difference is the metal headband with headstrap on Ananda. No more 3D printed crap.
    The sound quality is… the same, to me. Won’t lie and say I can hear the difference, but hey, it’s the same price.

  • Samsung S24 Ultra

    I used to take photos in 12 megapixels, because WhatsApp couldn’t send 50 megapixels photos anyway. But when I switched to 50Mb mode, I noticed that it also fixed the depth of field. My guess is that that phone actually uses one of the better lenses for that.

  • HifiMan Edition XS

    A few years ago, everyone praised HifiMan Edition XS for their sound, but they cost 500GBP, so I bought Sundara for 180GBP instead. Now XS cost 180GBP, so I had to buy them.
    Strangely I prefer Sundara headband. And not only me, as there are even mods that let you glue your own. Otherwise, they do start to put pressure on my crown. They weight 415g, not that far away from Shure Aonic 50 at 330g, that extra 85g makes a difference.
    How do they sound, though? Like Sundara, I’d say. The positioning is better, not necessarily due to drivers, but more due to their shape. And maybe the separation is clearer too, but you really need to look for it.

  • Razer Kitsune

    I started playing fighting games in early 2000s, and one of my first games was Garou Mark of the Wolves on Neo Geo emulator. Of course I played on PC, so I used keyboard. Later, with Xbox 360, I think, I got a gamepad. And that’s when I discovered that keyboard controls were superior to gamepads, as moves that require quarter circles, which are common in most 2D fightings, are far easier to perform on a keyboard. But I was in minority for a decade. Until leverless pads started to come out. Which are basically a keyboard, but with fewer buttons.
    I bought Razer Kitsune on a sale quite a while ago, but didn’t get to try it until now.
    It’s definitely an interesting product. Smaller than I expected, size of 60% keyboard.
    First time I see a locking mechanism on a USB-C port. Also, full rubber base, and not 4 rubber legs, is nice.
    I thought it might work on Switch though an adapter as the Xbox controller or maybe the Hori arcade stick, but no, the mapping is completely off. So I can only use it on PS5 or PC.
    The results are mixed so far. There’s definitely a learning curve, as when I play on keyboard, I move between “up” and “down” with my middle finger. On a fightpad, middle finger is always “down”, and “up” is thumb, where the “space” would be on a normal keyboard. Which makes sense, but still, learning curve. Still, I did manage to progress in City of the Wolves to 4th stage, so not all is lost.
    In beat’em’ups, and I was actually looking forward to play Streets of Rage on this, the situation is even weirder: you move up the screen with thumb, you jump with your right hand on X, and you move down the screen with middle finger. Definitely not as intuitive as with an arcade stick.

  • Garmin Fenix 8

    It’s an interesting watch, because almost everything I like about it could easily be implemented in Garmin Venu 3. How expensive is it to have 5 buttons instead of 3? But 5 buttons allow you to turn display on or off, and also scroll up and down without using the touch screen. In general, I feel like I could turn the touch screen off on Fenix 8 and be comfortable with it.
    Then there are watch faces. It’s actually funny how hard it is to find a watch face for Venu that has steps, battery level, day of week and date all on the same screen.
    Speaking of battery level, Fenix 8 promises 9 days with always on display. We finally reached Pebble levels of battery life, all it took us is 10 years in a 700GBP watch.
    Multiple timers are another completely software feature that’s only present in Fenix. Can I have two timers on Venu, please?
    Also, the fact that compass is just accessible from the menu.
    Features that do require special hardware: flashlight built into the watch. Neat.
    Smart alarm is another feature coming back 10 years from Pebble.
    It’s nice that you can assign actions to long press for each button, and you can also unnasign the voice assistant.
    Another very basic training feature: default rest time between sets. How hard can it be?
    Voice commands works surprisingly well. Those processed by the watch, not sent to phone. I managed to set a timer and cancel it as well. Saves a few button presses.

  • Samsung Buds 4 Pro

    The wireless charging is neat. Buds 2 had it as well, but here they added a magnet or something, so it snaps to the charging pad better.
    The Active Noise Cancelling is very good. To the point I might consider not carrying my Bose QC in the next flight. On the other hand, I sometimes listen with one earbud, in order not to miss announcements, and it’s worse than in my previous Buds 2. I can barely hear anything with a single earbud.
    The rubber tips in earbuds never work for me, but the custom foam ones I bought also feel not secure.

  • Not Samsung Galaxy Buds 3 Pro

    I’ve had Samsung Galaxy Buds 2 for quite some time now. They went through a washing machine, and I even managed to repair them once. But one of the buds started discharging almost immediately, so I decided it’s time to get a new version. There are plenty of Galaxy Buds 3 Pro sold on eBay sealed, so I decided I’d get one of these.
    They arrived in a couple of days, indeed sealed, and at first I was convinced. The fact that they didn’t connect when I opened the case and weren’t recognized by Wearables app was annoying, but many Samsung users reported the same.
    Then I started noticing more details, like the case not having markings on the bottom, and the buds not colour coded as in the videos.
    And the final nail in the coffin: typo “copyrigh” in the manual.
    So yeah, those are fake. First time this happens to me, as far as I remember.
    I started a dispute, learned my lesson, and bought Buds Pro 4 from official reseller this time.

  • LG 32GS95UV-B monitor

    I think I finally found the feature that was driving me crazy since I bought this monitor, the shifts in gray tones that take a few seconds to stabilize.
    Turns out it’s called “Smart Energy Saving”. Took me months, because first, it’s not clear that there’s a second page of options in the onscreen menu. And second, the name doesn’t suggest that it may affect colors.

  • LG 32GS95UV-B monitor

    Burn-in is real. I discovered it while playing Resident Evil 2. At first I didn’t understand what this effect at the bottom of the screen supposed to be, is it some kind of shader? It turned out to be shadow of Windows task bar. And I don’t even use that monitor that much, as I work from my laptop!
    Luckily, “OLED Image Cleaning” as LG calls it, helped remove it for now. But this is still very worrying.

  • Razer Pro Click V2 Vertical Edition

    I know I said I’m done with Razer. I lied. Partially. I’m done with them for gaming, but I got this vertical mouse to try at work.
    It’s such a weird mouse, because with it Razer does everything right, while it got everything wrong with its latest Deathadders and whatnot.
    Integrated shell buttons. Magnetic dongle storage inside the mouse. Bluetooth. Grip texture instead stickers.
    For the comfort: it’s like barefoot shoes. If your problem is in ankles, they help. If your problem is with tendons, they make things worse.
    With this mouse, I feel that my tendons work less, but my elbow and even shoulder work more.

  • Asus GL752VW

    I decided to yield. After practicing in soldering, taking a long look at the burned motherboard to undrestand the connectors, half-disassembling the laptop, I decided it’s not worth trying to risk a working laptop just to try and solder back 15 pin DVD connector.
    Well, I tried, and had some fun in the process. On to another project, I guess.

  • Xbox HDD upgrade

    I probably already mentioned that the original Xbox came with a meager 8GB HDD drive. I had 120GB SSD lying around, so I decided to upgrade it.
    Needed IDE to SATA adapter, since all SSDs are SATA, and a 80 wires IDE cable, since SATA can’t work with the 40 wires one Xbox came with. But with enough patience, I got everything I needed.
    Interesting that Xbox is a clamshell, that has very long screws that hold top and bottom parts together. Also, you need star screwdriver, not a cross one common to PCs. Luckily I had all the tools I needed.
    Once you disassemble the console, you can see that similarly to Dreamcast, it’s basically a PC motherboard with an integrated nVidia graphics card.

    The most common trick to upgrade the HDD is called a “hot swap”. There is a single cable that connects both CDROM and HDD to the motherboard. Xbox won’t boot without a CDROM. But if you let Xbox boot up, then disconnect CDROM and connect slave HDD instead, it will recognize the drive.
    I didn’t want to perform that trick at first, so I tried to just connect original HDD to my PC, and copy C and E drives. But that didn’t work out, as the drive is locked, and you cannot unlock it with USB adapter, only when connected with IDE cable.
    So I went back to the hotswap method. It went smoothly: you connect the drive, then use utility called Chimp that clones it to the slave, then just swap the two.
    Now I have Xbox with space enough to store every game I’m interested in.

  • Dreamcast

    One simple truth every retrogamer learns is that no hardware is eternal. In case of my Dreamcast, the PSU started acting lately. At first I thought it’s the discs, as sometimes it wouldn’t boot at all, or take a long time to boot, or load a game then reboot after a few seconds.
    Luckily, there are a couple of solutions nowadays. The most popular is DreamPSU, which replaces the proprietary plug and a massive board with a tiny board compatible with standard 12V adapters. Then there’s CleanPower, which allows it to use USB-C, but twice as expensive. I decided to start with DreamPSU.
    And since I’m going to disassemble Dreamcast anyway, I decided that replacing my CDROM (sorry, GDROM) with an GDEMU that reads games from a SD card would be appropriate to. Great thing about both mods is that you don’t need to solder anything. Dreamcast had a PC-like architecture, so you can just unplug your CDROM and PSU. And to get to them, you just remove 4 regular screws.
    Expected benefit: now there’s no need to swap discs, or burn them. Also, the games boot much faster since there’s no seek time.
    Unexpected benefit: console is 460g lighter. CDROM is 310g, and PSU is another 150g (I thought it’d be even heavier).